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les Sables d’Olonne & Storm Herminia

Why did we visit les Sables d’Olonne? To find where ‘Cachalot’ made passage in 1955 and watch Vendee Globe arrivals.

Storm Herminia, named by the Spanish Met. Office in late January 2025 caused major flooding across Spain and north-west France. The huge seas delayed several Vendee Globe participants on the approach to the finish line and welcome in les Sables d’Olonne. Arriving on Tuesday evening we ventured out for a walk on Wednesday 29 January in the wild, wet, windy and very cold weather, testing out our new waterproof down jackets (purchased for the Arctic trip this summer). Wandering the back streets, we wondered how much had changed since 1955 when E E Nott-Bower owned our boat ‘Cachalot’ and decided to sail south, having tired of the wind and rain in his usual cruising grounds off Scotland. Find out about his passage into the Gironde at les Sables d’Olonne with extracts from an article in Yachting Monthly Magazine, 1956.

We wondered whether the ‘fishy back streets’ noted in Nott-Bower’s report, were the ones still here today. Despite the weather we found les Sables was much better than we’d anticipated and glad we’d decided to stay longer. Retreating to the warmth of the van for a second night at the quiet Aire we enjoyed our supper of saute potatoes with Cordon Bleu purchased yesterday at the l’Eclerc butcher.

Thursday dawned much calmer and we decided to visit the bird observatory only a short distance away, overlooking the marshes. On a dull day at the end of January, there wasn’t much to see but it was a peaceful and beautiful quiet landscape with a silhouette of the town on the horizon. As the storm subsided, two Vendee Globe participants were due to arrive in the afternoon so we took our place with the crowds thronging the banks of the Channel to welcome them: Boris Herrmann, 12th and Sam Davies, 13th. After a drink in the hospitality tent we returned for a final night at the Aire.

Today we head south for the Gironde Estuary, having breakfast on the beach road then cutting across countryside of low-lying farmland with flooding in places from the irrigation canals criss-crossing the land. We spotted storks, egrets and kestrel as we passed through deserted villages and hamlets. Skirting round la Rochelle we took the D137 to Rochefort with a splendid viaduct then crossed the Viaduc d’Oleron onto the Ile d’Oleron. After driving to the north to visit the Phare de Chasirron which had sadly just closed as we arrived, we returned to a rather pricy Municipal Campsite at le Chateau d’Oleron costing €15.50. This is a partially renovated very old site (with ancient plumbing and facilities blocks) providing good value as the price includes hot showers, speedy wifi, EHU, hard-standing on large pitches and all the usual water and waste disposal.