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Zurich to Tirano

We left Barbara & Christof after breakfast, Friday 27 March to catch the double deck train to Chur and our promised trip on the Bernina Line. It snowed lightly overnight and weather forecast in the mountains look good for the weekend: fingers crossed. Arrived in Chur from Zurich to board the regional train to St Moritz. Only 6 minutes to change trains but we’re assured this is fine in Switzerland: transfer times are linked to arrival/departure platforms which don’t change and trains are pretty well always on time! It’s just two hours to St Moritz where we changed onto the Bernina line to reach our overnight stop in Tirano, just over the Swiss border in Italy.

The well-known ‘Bernina Express’ is a commercial venture, now aimed primarily at tourists who may wish to pay the extra fees enabling them to sit in a sealed ‘panoramic’ coach where the windows don’t open and you can’t get off at most of the stations. This ‘special’ runs a couple of times a day in each direction and has to be reserved. It’s often fully booked months in advance. However, the ‘panoramic’ coach is hauled by a normal electric set of rolling stock. The line is actually a frequent regional service between Chur and Tirano via St Moritz. The rolling stock is very comfortable with 1st & 2nd class carriages and covered by the Interrail Pass with no reservations required. The windows may be opened and the train stops at several stations along the route so passengers may get off and on as they wish. Seems like a no brainer which option to choose!

In 1943, following financial problems the original Albula and Bernina lines were merged into the Rhaetian Railway which still operates the services today. The original lines were built at the beginning of the 20th century betwen 1904 – 1914. Our ride today, with all our luggage meant we didn’t get off the train (apart from the somewhat frenetic 40 minute change of trains. at St Moritz). As the weather looks even better tomorrow, we plan to ride the Bernina line train again, this time with just cameras (and some very warm thermals), going up to the highest point to look at the view.

Found our excellent accommodation in the Tirano old town and ate at a ristorante recommended by our host, Paulo who actually met us at the apartment to hand over the keys!