And we’re off! Walked down the hill for our first train, departing Wednesday 4 March at 0944. Change at Derby, 1032, due into St Pancras 1209 for an overnight in Kings Cross at the Great Northern Hotel. Checked in early and got an upgrade on our basic room! We’d booked the ‘Couchette’ and got a high-ceiling room with a little sofa and all the extras of a 5* hotel. It was the first railway hotel built in London and has a curved wall, reflected in the corridors which have a little pantry for guests’ use at the end. Our 4th floor room gives a great view over St Pancras station, just a five minute walk for the Eurostar in the morning. Went for a wander round Coal Drops Yard returning to the bar for live jazz before having supper at Pizza Express, Euston Road, an old ‘haunt’ from 25 years ago!
Left our upgraded room at 0745 and walked across to St Pancras. With orderly queues and friendly staff for ticketing, Customs & Immigration is a reminder of why rail travel is so much better than short-haul flying. We waited in the quiet departure lounge with coffee and croissants before boarding our ‘Plus’ seats nos. 61 & 65 (chosen in recognition of the renowned ‘Seat61’ website). Arrived on time into Paris after an enjoyable run with brunch in our ‘Plus’ seats, served on china crockery and proper cutlery.
We walked from Gare du Nord to sit in a cafe for lunch at the Hotel des deux Gares. Sunny and warm it was amazing to see the planned project to link Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est. Looks like it will be an even bigger complex than Kings Cross St Pancras. The TGV to Stuttgart left on time from platform 27, furthest along the concourse and our coach was at the front with maybe 18 carriages to walk past. We’d booked comfy seats on the upper deck, setting off at 1555 in blue skies and sunshine. Just past Strasbourg, at the border crossing, we’d been warned to expect a delay. The German government introduced random border checks in 2024, within the Schengen rules. It’s been increased recently and our train was boarded by German Police just after the bridge over the Rhine at Kehl. They checked ID for all passengers but the train was only delayed for about 15 minutes.
We arrived slightly late into Stuttgart due to these checks but still in good time for our connection and allowing us a little shopping trip as we knew there was no buffet car on the overnight train. Sadly our ‘first class’ ÖBB Nightjet sleeper wasn’t quite what we’d expected. Although clean, the two-berth compartment was a bit scruffy and there was no water in the washbasin and only one functioning toilet functioning for all three ‘Nightjet’ coaches – the rest of the train comprised a motley collection of old Hungarian MÁV rolling stock with six berth couchettes. Fortunately there was a great pair of train staff who were very friendly trying to help everyone make the best of the evening despite the plumbing issues. We had a good night’s sleep, the conductors brought breakfast to our compartment in the morning and we arrived into Venice on time at 0835.
Total journey time 48 hours: Wedesday, 0944 Matlock Bath – Derby – London St Pancras, afternoon & overnight in London. Thursday, 0830 Eurostar to Paris, TGV Paris – Stuttgart then night train to Venice arrive Friday, 0835.