There isn’t ‘dawn’ of course as it never gets dark, but as we got up for breakfast the clouds were still hanging over the mountains above the Dahlbreen glacier. There was an interesting glow to the light as we headed ashore to explore the glacier from the safety of the moraine. No snowshoes needed today, just ski poles to make walking on the rocky surface a bit easier. Plenty of interesting rocks to look at as well as sea ice from the glacier and a few tiny plants and flowers.
After returning to the ship, we sailed on up Forlandsundet to go ashore on the long narrow spit at Sarstangen. The strait is very shallow with only 2m under the keel of the ship in places. After being dropped off on the shore, we walked along the spit, very slowly ensuring we didn’t disturb the herd of walrus we’d come to observe. The ship sailed round, through a narrow channel to meet us on the other side. Sailing north again in the evening, we reached Ny-Ålesund to moor overnight in the harbour.
We spent the morning visiting Ny-Ålesund, the most northerly settlement in the world at 78°56’ now home to several international research institutes. We walked with our guides to the mast where Roald Amundsen docked his airship ‘Norge’, outside the ‘safe zone’ so they had to carry their rifles. A museum tells the harrowing story of coal-mining in the town.
Back aboard ship, we set sail at 1100 for an ice cruise deep into the brash, growlers, bergy bits and glacial ice of Kongsfjorden. Fantastic to watch and listen to the crashing of ice as the ship moved slowly through and several took the chance to climb the mast, relax in the bowsprit netting or just enjoy the peace, amazing crystal views across the ice and sunshine. Steve sunk a bucket to capture a large chunk of Arctic ice and made gin and tonic for everyone. Returned to anchor at Nordvågen, Blomstrandbreen between the island opposite Ny-Ålesund and another glacier.
Steve and I stayed up under the midnight sun on deck – everyone else had gone to bed as we suddenly heard a rumble and watched as a glacier calved making the ship roll quite noticeably . . .
Watch the movie of the first part of the trip: UK to Ny-Ålesund.